Good price and Quality
Received in good condition with all part and hardware. Some assembly was required as expected... you should watch some YouTube videos to get an idea of what to expect... I don't use it to totally heat the barn/shop but to knock the chill off... its 24x60 and keeps working conditions OK,, the 55 gal drum has a good draft and the door seals nicely.
Great alternative to purchasing a more expensive stove.
I started out with a Vogelzang Highlander and it didn't heat well , even with he blower running. Decided to give the Barrel stove kit a try. Installed it on a 30 gallon barrel. The kit is built for a 55 gallon. It will fit a 30, but not perfect. The legs dont quite fit flush to the barrel, had to make spacers. No big deal.
All other parts fit well enough. I used Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to seal the door and the other parts. This helps a lot to keep the stove air tight. I also drilled 2 more holes and added 2 more bolts on the front door just above the bottom vent to provide a better fit to the barrel. I also added lock washers to all the bolts to help keep them tight.
After the first long outside burn to remove all the old paint and oil residue inside the barrel, I used a high temp flat black engine paint ( 2000 degree) to paint the stove. I painted everything including the front door with 2 coats.
Had to replace the plastic knobs for the doors because they are cheap and the bottom one striped by the second day. ( maybe I didnt install them properly, who knows) I used regular wooden kitchen drawer knobs from Lowes ( $1.57 for a pack of 2) and replaced the plastic ones. They are much better than the plastic.
After 10 + burns no lose bolts except the bolt holding the handle on the main door. ( probably gets lose because of constant use)
Overall the barrel stove is great. Much more heat than the Highlander and you can put logs up to 30" into it and let it burn all night. With properly seasoned wood and the correct air flow you can get 8+ hours out of a full stove. I will purchase this kit again and try it on a 55 gallon barrel next time. Over all I give this kit a "A"
Good stove if you can rework its flaws
Trevor is right on the money, and neither Robert's representatives nor Vogelzang will admit it. The previous-model flue collar shown in Robert's video allows the flue lower MALE END to be inserted INTO the collar, as it should be (and as Robert warns in his response to Trevor). The collar shipped with this kit now, and as shown in the photos for the listing, is CLEARLY designed for the larger (female) end of the flue to go AROUND it. Its inside diameter is only 5 1/2", and no matter what Northline or Vogelzang say, there is no acceptable way to force a 6" diameter flue into a 5 1/2" hole by crimping it. You would end up with an ugly, super-leaky, unstable joint, and to make it worse, the crimped end would prevent the damper from turning. Northline and Vogelzang deny that there is an issue. I had to spend more $$$ to get the appropriate female flue collar, which Northline does sell, but the shipping is more than the collar. Hint: Go to your local farm supply and buy a double-barrel kit, for less money, which includes a nice female collar.
Other than that, the intake dampers as shipped are kind of a fail (and Dell's comment is relevant here). The castings are poor, need to be filed or ground down in spots to allow them to turn properly, and need quite a bit of filing inside the triangle-shaped openings to align with those on the lower door (use a coarse 1/4" round file with the parts in a vise). Then you'll want to adjust their screws carefully as you re-install them, trying to achieve a bit of drag without binding. They are not balanced, so if they're loose they will not hold the setting you want (safety alert). Vogelzang should replace these with the rotary draft knobs as used on Logwood and other stoves, which work much better. They're available online for about $8 each, I would swap them out but all these stove companies (which seem to be under the same umbrella corp) want $25 shipping no matter how small or light the part.
Gary makes good points about the latch knobs. I put silicone sealer in the threads when I attached the bakelite ball-knobs to the latch, so they shouldn't ever loosen. However, the knobs are too small. You have to be careful to not let your fingers go past the small knob or you'll get a quick burn on the cast-iron latch. The sheet metal latch strikes are way too thin... someday I'll make heavier ones, but for now they do barely get the job done.
Because I am an experienced stove builder/installer/machinist, I ended up with a very nice stove using this kit. It is a quality design, once its shortcomings are overcome.
Door handle latch handle knobs
Stove works great, however the I'm not happy with the non metallic door latch handle latch knobs.
I have only used this stove for a couple of days and both door handle latch knobs keep loosening up. The upper door latch knob just became stripped and fell off on the floor.
I'm going to fabricate a metal door handle latch knob to replace that knob and no doubt will be forced to do the same with the bottom ash door handle latch knob in the near future.
Those door handle latch knobs are cheaply and poorly designed which is another reason companies should be using American labor instead of outsourcing products such as this one to China.
Love my barrel stove! I assembeld a barrel stove for my patio and i couldn't be happier. Built another to take camping, all the heat needed but with two sections of pipe all the smoke is out of our eyes and dont go to bed smelling like a camp fire.
Nice Kit, Poor Instructions
Hi, just assembled this kit, very nice ki,t works great. But had to call Vogelzang because instructions were vague and illustrations showed the standard kit, not the Deluxe kit. Otherwise nice product.
One terrible flaw
I've been heating my house with this kit going on three years now. The problem is with dripping creosote. The stovepipe flange is designed so that female end (non-crimped) goes on the flange first. Stovepipes are suppose to be installed with the male end (crimped) facing down so that the creosote drips back into the stove and doesn't run down the outside of the pipe and subsequently burn off creating a nasty smell. You cannot insert the male end into the flange because its opening is too small. Bottom line is that the flange is made only for the female end which is just dumb because that's not how stovepipes work. Other than the flange I do enjoy this stove and try my best not to suffocate it too much and create creosote. Oh, and the gasket started falling out within a week of using it but that was not a terribly difficult fix.
Moderator Comment: Trevor, I agree that the pipe flange is a bit small. However, I have been able to get the male end into the pipe adapter. Brands of pipe vary a bit in their dimensions so one thing you could do is to crimp the pipe (male end) more than it already is. We have a tool for that at http://www.northlineexpress.com/stove-pipe-crimper.html Needle nose pliers also work ok in a pinch. Clamp the pipe with the pliers and give it a twist. You really should remove the pipe and turn it around so the crimped ends are all facing down otherwise you will have a mess and a fire hazard....Robert.
Reviewer: Dell Guthrie
This unit works pretty well. The draft, however, was not designed to allow enough air into the combustion chamber. It works best with the door partly open, increasing the air supply. It's pretty hard to find a happy medium, but with some experimentation, you can find the draft amount you need. The damper is mostly useless without enough draft to the fire.
I have modified mine so I can keep the lower door closed, eliminating the possibility of coals falling onto the floor in front.
Ordering my Deluxe barrel stove kit was easy and it was delivered without any problems. I would definitly order from you again
Reviewer: Bill Pallan
excellent way to heat my garage.